Iguanas as pets

Care in Captivity

Green iguanas are tropical animals. A captive environment should be set up to best approximate the temperature, humidity, and ultraviolet light found in the reptile’s natural setting.

ULTRAVIOLET LIGHT

Access to ultraviolet light is the captive iguana’s most important requirement. Iguanas are know as “basking lizards” because they spend much of their time basking in the sun. When the sun’s rays hit the iguana, Vitamin D is manufactured by the body. This vitamin is essential for the proper absorption and utilization of calcium by your iguana. Calcium deficiency is the most common medical problem seen in captive iguanas.

The best source of ultraviolet light is the sun. In northern climates, the sun is strong enough to be beneficial only in the summer. It is not known how much sun is enough, but iguanas should receive a full day of sun at least two or three times a week. This can be accomplished by putting the iguana’s cage outdoors or on a sunny window ledge. Since ultraviolet rays cannot penetrate glass, the iguana should be kept in a wire cage when “sunning.” Be sure that you provide a shaded area in he cage.

Currently no commercial artificial light duplicates the ultraviolet rays of the sun. A close approximation, however, can be provided by using two types of bulbs simultaneously: a Vita-Lite and a Black Light-BL. You should be able to buy these bulbs at most lighting stores. If your iguana is not receiving enough natural sunlight, you should provide it with 8 to 12 hours a day of light from these two bulbs.

DIET

Green iguanas eat a variety of plants, insects, and small rodents. The more varied the captive diet, the more likely it is to meet your iguana’s nutritional needs. Foods to offer can be divided into two basic groups: protein-calcium foods and vegetable-plant foods. Sources of protein and calcium include: tofu, hard-boiled eggs, pelleted rabbit or guinea pig food, trout chow, monkey biscuits, baby mouse pups, and dog food. (Cat food is too rich for iguanas.) Vegetables to offer include thawed frozen mixed vegetables, alfalfa spouts, green beans, dandelion, spinach, kale, carrot tops, and beet, turnip and collard greens. Some iguanas are attracted to red foods such as sweet peppers, roses, hibiscus, and carnations.

Young, growing iguanas have different nutritional needs than older iguanas. Young iguanas should be fed finely chopped foods on a daily basis. Older iguana can eat larger chunks of food and can be fed three to four times a week. Too little calcium and protein can cause illness in young iguanas; too much calcium and protein can be harmful for full-grown iguanas. Table outlines some basic feeding guidelines.

Basic Feeding Guidelines for Different Sizes of Iguana
Size	Food Type
Baby iguanas (up to 1 food long, nose to vent)	50% vegetable-plant foods 50% protein-calcium foods
Medium-size iguanas (1 to ½-feet long, nose to vent)	25% protein-calcium foods 75% vegetable-plant foods
Full-grown iguanas	10-15% protein-calcium foods 85-90% vegetable-plant foods

CAGING

Caging should be kept simple and easy to clean. Iguanas should not be left loose in the house - not only are accidents and escapes common, but also, a “roaming” iguana will not receive the necessary heat and ultraviolet light it requires.


Sanitation

It is important to keep the iguana’s cage clean to avoid infections of the skin and other organs that result from contact with urine and faces. A once-a-week cleaning is generally recommended. It is a good habit, however, to remove any spoiled food or excrement from the cage as soon as it is noticed. The cage can be washed with soap and water as necessary. Periodic disinfection with 1 ounce of chlorine bleach diluted in 1 quart of water is advised. Be sure to rinse the cage thoroughly and allow it to dry before putting the iguana back in. 

Cage Mates

Iguanas should be caged alone. Putting more than one iguana in a cage often leads to fighting. The presence of a second iguana even within view of another may result in excited reactions, decreased appetite, and thrashing around the cage.

COMMON DISEASE PROBLEMS

You should become familiar with your pet’s normal behavior patterns so as to recognize any changes in activity or appetite. Signs of illness include: lethargy, decreased appetite, leg weakness, swelling of the legs or jaw, lumps under the skin, mucus or blood from the mouth or nose, open-moth breathing, and extrusion of the rectum or uterus from the vent.

If your iguana has any of these signs, immediately schedule an appointment with your veterinarian because it can be any of these diseases:

• Metabolic Bone Disease
• Soft Tissue Mineralization
• Abscesses
• Dry Gangrene Of Toes And Tail
• Face Rubbing
• Mouth Rot
• Thermal Injuries
• Parasite Problems
• Egg Binding
• Prolapse Of The Uterus Or Hemipenis
• Broken Tail Or Toe
• Bladder Stones